The western desert or Libyan desert, is marvelous tapestry of geologic formations. Over million of years and and the repeated rising and falling of the ocean, deposits of chalk and and manganese were laid down. The sands are true sea sands; bits of shell and rock mixed. The sands flow between the chalk sculptures which rise with an improbably balance of gravity. Large heads on thin stalks leaning into the invisible wind (or rather away from it). The first night we spent in the sand dunes, a continuous beach in all directions. A beach without water. A table set up in the sand for our meals, a surreal sight alone in the sea of sand. At night the stars shine with an intensity and clarity only a desert can bring. The stars are bright enough and numerous enough to light up the land scape. There is no true dark out here (unless possibly if it is cloudy or a sand storm). No alternate light is needed to walk among the silhouettes of chalk and dunes. The sky it self is filled completely. Stars you can see, and the numerous farther, dimmer stars that form the gentle mint green fabric of the sky.
The next day we drove out of the sand dunes into the white desert. Here the chalk layer is exposed as a sheet. First a sea of frozen waves of white chalk, sculptures of the wind. Lying every were are small black rocks contrasting against the stark white. First I was fascinated at the spherical nature of some, and the smoothness of thousand of years of polishing. But then we came to an area nearly covered in black nodules. Some of them formed into flower like clusters, a defiant crystal like growth. Then I saw it, a black fossil shell!!! It then occurred to me this must be manganese deposits. Of course, this area was formed ages ago at the bottom of an ocean. Regardless, I was now beach combing a million years in the past.
We spent that night further along in the white desert. Here the chalk formations form an eerie sight, like walking in a Salvador Dali painting; especially at night when the shapes become more alive. Distorted heads rising from the sands. Mouths open, eyes peering, beasts of imagination. First the night sky of stars lighting the white forms in a greenish-blue light. Then the moon rises. Its blood red light casting an unearthly glow among the distorted land scape. Then a change to ghostly cold. The Heavens them selves transformed as wisps of clouds stretched and twisted across the sky. I was looking up into a cold clear river with a dark stony bottom scattered with shiny crystals…
The next day we headed home… to the bustle and noise of the city. The starless sky…
